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Export of Finished Leather - Revised Leather Norms.

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..... the Foreign Trade Policy 2015-20, that the items mentioned in column 2 of the table hereunder shall constitute "Finished Leather" and the same may be exported without a license but subject to the terms and conditions specified against each item in column 3 of the table hereunder." S. No. Description of item Manufacturing Norms Conditions 1. 2. 3. I Leathers with finishing coat (All substrates - Goat and Sheep skins and Bovine hides/sides calf skins including splits) a. Tanning b. Dyeing(optional) c. Fatliquoring d. Finishing coat II Suede Leathers (All substrates including splits) a. Tanning b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in case of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by chromatographic techniq .....

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..... a. Tanning b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades (in case of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by chromatographic technique or spectrophotometric technique) c. Fatliquoring d. Wax coat e. Burnishable effect on rubbing (Minimum CIEΔL value of -3.0 on 10 dry rubbing on SATRA Fastness tester or any other fastness tester as measured on a Reflectance spectrophotometer) VII Pull Up Leather - Wax/Oil (All substrates including butts and bends) a. Tanning b. Dyeing in light/pastel/medium/dark shades(in case of doubt, the presence of dye to be ascertained by chromatographic technique or spectrophotometric technique) c. Fatliquoring d. Wax coat (or) Oilcoat e. Pull up effect (Minimum CIE ΔL value of .....

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..... , pronounced and shall be seen throughout the leather grain or flesh surface. NOTE: Any new type of finished leather not covered under the above categories shall be permitted for export, subject to testing and certification by Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI). DEFINITIONS OF MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS Tanning -Tanning with one or more than one kind of tanning agent, such as mineral tanning and vegetable tanning and/or syntan tanning and/or resin tanning and/or aldehyde tanning, oil tanning in any sequence and or any new type of tanning. Dyeing - Treating the leather with a solution of dye/s to impart a colour . In case of doubt the presence of dye should be ascertained by extracting dye from leather using suitable solvent mixture .....

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..... all comprise materials singly or in combination such as proteins or synthetic acrylic or polyurethane, vinyls lacquers or lacquer emulsions. If necessary, microscopic examination of the surface at minimum 100 times magnification shall be carried out to detect the finishing coat. NOTE 2: - Microscopic examination for finish coat: Binocular stereoscopic microscope with (two paired) objectives capable of viewing the objects at a total magnification of 100X will be required. Stereoscopic microscope gives a three dimensional view of the object. Leather sample to be examined is placed on the stage of the microscope with the grain facing the objectives and then the surface is focused. Two or three places in each of the five locations namely but .....

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..... ried leather surface is observed under microscope for the presence of wax crystals on the surface. Burnishable Effect - Rubbing on grain surface of leather should show a distinct gloss with a darkening of the shade giving rise to a burnishing effect. Minimum CIE ΔL value of - 3.0 on 10 dry rubbing on SATRA or any other fastness tester. Pull up Effect - Leather shall produce a distinct pull-up effect showing a contrast light color from the base minimum CIE ΔL value of +3 as measured by the reflectance spectrophotometer. Wool Combing- The operation through which wool entanglements are released. Application of foil/film - Acrylic/PVC/PU foil or film Rolling - The operation of rolling the heavy leathers like sole leather using .....

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